Hyperpigmentation or uneven skin tone affect most people at some point, often as a result of sun damage or post-acne scarring. But melasma is a more persistent form of discoloration—stubborn, recurring, and often challenging to treat. It can stem from a variety of causes, including hormones and genetics, and ranges in severity from mild to severe.
Among the many available treatment options, professional chemical peels have become a popular choice. But how do chemical peels for melasma work, exactly? And what should you know before booking an appointment? Below, we break down how chemical peels work, what to expect, and when to consult a professional to ensure you're on the right path to clearer, more even-toned skin.
What Is Melasma?
Melasma is a form of hyperpigmentation that typically appears as brown or gray-brown patches, most often on the cheeks, forehead, nose bridge, and upper lip. It's more common in women—particularly those with medium to darker skin tones—and is influenced by both internal and external factors. Sometimes referred to as "the mask of pregnancy" due to its hormonal links, melasma can, in reality, affect anyone.
There are three main types of melasma:
- Epidermal melasma: Brown patches with well-defined borders located on the top layer of the skin.
- Dermal melasma: Light brown or grayish patches with blurry edges deeper in the skin's layers.
- Mixed melasma: The most common form, combining both epidermal and dermal characteristics.
What Causes Melasma?
Melasma develops when melanocytes, the pigment-producing cells in the skin, become overactive. This can be triggered by:
- Hormonal fluctuations: Pregnancy, birth control pills, and hormone therapy can all stimulate melanin production.
- Sun exposure: Ultraviolet (UV) rays are a major trigger, and even minimal exposure can worsen or reactivate melasma.
- Genetics: A family history of melasma increases your likelihood of developing it.
- Heat and visible light: Infrared heat and blue light from screens can exacerbate melasma.
How Melasma Appears on Different Skin Tones
Melasma presents differently depending on skin tone, which can affect diagnosis and treatment.
Lighter Skin (Fitzpatrick I–III)
Melasma in lighter skin tones tends to be more visible and may respond more quickly to treatment.
Darker Skin (Fitzpatrick IV–VI)
Melasma may blend into the natural complexion, making it harder to detect early. These skin types are more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, requiring gentler treatment approaches to avoid irritation.
Do Chemical Peels Help Melasma?
Chemical peels are among the most effective treatments for melasma. "Chemical peels for melasma work by exfoliating the skin to get rid of dead skin cells, which leaves the underlying skin brighter," explains Dr. Marisa Garshick, a board-certified Dermatologist in New York City. "Additionally, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) work to improve skin tone by interfering with melanin production. Peels can also improve the penetration of any topical products you may use for melasma."
There are different levels of peels: Superficial peels are best for mild melasma and offer minimal downtime, while medium-depth peels penetrate deeper to address more persistent pigmentation.
Other Melasma Treatment Options
While chemical peels are a leading treatment for melasma, your skincare professional may recommend combining or exploring alternative methods, such as:
- Lasers: Lasers use focused light energy to break up pigment. However, they should be used with caution, as some lasers can worsen melasma.
- Microdermabrasion: This gentle exfoliation technique can improve skin texture and help skincare products penetrate more effectively.
- Topical treatments: Prescription creams containing hydroquinone, retinoids, or tranexamic acid can be highly effective, especially when paired with in-office treatments.
Common Chemical Peels for Melasma
Here are some of the most commonly used chemical peels for melasma:
- Glycolic acid peels: An AHA peel that helps exfoliate the skin's surface and gradually fade mild pigmentation with minimal downtime.
- Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels: A medium-depth peel for deeper pigmentation.
- Jessner's peel: A blend of salicylic acid, lactic acid, and resorcinol that helps treat hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone.
What to Expect From a Chemical Peel Treatment
Treating melasma is a long-term journey, not a fast fix. Most people see improvement over time with consistent care and professional guidance. Here's what to keep in mind:
- Expect improvement, not perfection: Melasma can fade significantly, but complete elimination is rare.
- Maintenance is key: Even after visible improvement, melasma can return, so consistent care is essential.
- Professional monitoring matters: Work with a qualified skincare provider who can tailor treatments to your skin type and melasma subtype.
Post-Treatment Care
Post-treatment care is vital to support healing, minimize irritation, and help prolong results. First and foremost, sun protection is paramount. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every day to help prevent pigmentation from returning or worsening. Wear a wide-brimmed hat, and seek shade outdoors—especially during peak sun hours.
Next, stick to a gentle skincare routine including a hydrating cleanser and soothing moisturizer formulated for your skin type. Avoid active ingredients (like retinoids or exfoliants) until your provider gives you the green light. Finally, limit heat exposure, including hot showers and intense workouts.
Choosing the Right Skincare Regimen for You
Once your skin is fully healed, determining the best skincare routine to help maintain your chemical peel results begins with understanding your skin type, the type of melasma you have, and the severity of your pigmentation. For example, if you have mild melasma and oily skin, consider lightweight serums with niacinamide or azelaic acid. If you have dry or sensitive skin, try pairing gentle, low-strength retinols with hydrating formulas containing hyaluronic acid. Your skincare provider can help you build a routine that supports your individual needs.
When to See a Professional
If you've tried over-the-counter treatments with little success—or if your pigmentation has taken a turn for the worse—it's time to consult a professional. A personalized plan that accounts for your skin type, history, and lifestyle can make all the difference in managing melasma effectively.
Melasma may be tough to treat, but with the right combination of professional care and consistent at-home habits, it's possible to dramatically improve your skin tone and restore your confidence. Not sure where to start? Find a PCA SKIN-certified professional near you today.